»Deutsche Version • Home • Travelogues • Croatia • Zagreb

Travelogue Zagreb, Croatia – Sights of the Upper and Lower Town

Contents

• Short Overview
• Zagreb’s Lower Town
• Zagreb’s Upper Town

Photo Album

• Zagreb

External Links

• Zagreb Tourism [www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr]
• Zagreb Guide [www.croatiatraveller.com]

Zagreb Weather

In June 2003, I did a business trip to Zagreb, the capital city of Croatia. On a sunny afternoon I took my camera to do a photographic excursion through the »Lower Town. When I returned to Zagreb some time later in March 2004, I finally managed to explore the »Upper Town as well.

Zagreb – Short Overview

Zagreb is the capital and largest city of Croatia. The city covers an area of 641 sq km (248 sq mi) and has approx. 780,000 inhabitants. About a quarter of the total population of the country lives in Greater Zagreb. The City of Zagreb is located on the river Sava in Northern Croatia, about 170 km (105 mi) away from the Adriatic Sea.

Sightseeing in Zagreb’s Lower Town (Donji Grad)

[Thurs, 5 June 2003] — The starting point of my stroll is the Ban Jelačić Square (Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića), – the central square of the Lower Town. It is named after the Croatian King Ban Jelačić, who put down the Hungarian Revolution in 1848. The Equestrian Sculpture in the middle of the square was established in his honour.

The Ban Jelačić Square is also the central point of the local traffic. From here the trams of the ZET (Zagrebački Električni Tramvaj) start in almost all directions. Tickets are available on the train (the train conductor sells tickets at a price of HRK 8, which is approx. € 1) or a little cheaper at one of the newsstands at the square.

The Tourist Information Centre of the City of Zagreb is also located at Jelačić Square, just a few steps away from the fountain at the corner to Jurišićeva Street.

From Ban Jelačić Square I walk to Bakačeva Street, and proceed uphill to Kaptol. The Cathedral of Zagreb (Zagrebačka Katedrala) – also called “Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary” – with its 105-meter (344-ft) twin towers rises majestically in the sky. A glance into my guidebook tells me that the towers, built in 1880, are a landmark of the city. And that the Cathedral’s treasury comprises a collection of treasures, which has been growing constantly since the foundation of the bishopric in the 11th century.

In front of the Cathedral the Holy Mary’s column and the golden angels of the Blessed Virgin Mary Fountain (Marijin stup s anđelima i fontanom) shine in the sun.

Parts of the former defence walls, which have been remained on the left of the Cathedral, make the view perfect.

Recommendable bistro: Opposite to the cathedral, a cosy Italian bistro the “Kapuciner” – serving delicious pizzas and pasta – is located. On its sun terrace you may enjoy your meal in open air. Quite nice!

From Kaptol I walk southwest and reach Dolac after a few steps. It is the central market-place of the city – situated on a terrace uphill from Jelačić Square. On its two levels goods are sold every morning. In the covered market on the 1st level meat, sausages, cheese, cakes and pastries are offered for sale. At the stalls on the 2nd level (in open air) fruits, vegetables and flowers are hawked.

At the end of the market-place I climb a small staircase that leads to Opativina Street. I pass the statue of the jester Petrica Kerempuh, who was known for his ironic jokes. Finally, I turn off into a picturesque street, the Skalinska that reveals a magnificent view on the Cathedral. I walk down the street and get to Tkalčićeva Street, which is lined with boutiques, cafes and bars. In Tkalčićeva Street things are really happening, especially in sunny weather when everybody is on the street.

I turn back and cross the main square till I reach Preradović Square (Preradovićev Trg). It is also called flower-market (Cvjetni Trg), as florists sell fresh cut flowers till the evening hours every day. The Preradović Square and its related intersecting roads are surrounded by countless cafés offering sun shaded seats in open air.

The side roads of Preradović Square are home to a few old cinemas that present the current U.S. productions. The movies are shown in English language with Croatian subtitles faded in. Thus, even for tourists a visit to the cinema is a nice pastime.

The last leg of my walk leads me to the Zrinski Square, where Zrinjevac – the oldest park in Zagreb’s Lower Town – is located. I really do like this place. Its heart is decorated by a music pavilion of 1891. Close by, a fountain was set up in 1893. The square is surrounded by numerous busts of important Croatian personages. To relax on one of the park’s benches is a nice amusement!

After a short length of time I head for home. On my way back I pass the square “Trg hrvatskih velikana”. The square is dominated by the Stock Exchange Palace that houses the headquarters of the National Bank of Croatia. Four white columns adorn the facade of the magnificent building. A lavish fountain is situated in front of it.

Via Jurišićeva Street I return to Ban Jelačić Square, the initial and final point of my trip.

Recommendable restaurant: Lovers of the Italian cuisine should stop at Kavana Restaurant Boban. It is located in the basement vault of Gajeva Street no. 9, quite close to Ban Jelačić Square.

Sights in Zagreb’s Upper Town (Gornji Grad)

[Wed, 17 March 2004] — My tour starts at Ban Jelačić Square again. I walk through Ilica till I reach the funicular (ZET Uspinjača). Since 1891 it connects the lower with the upper town. For a few kunas you may get on one of the cars that carry you upward. Alternatively you can take the stairs leading up on each side of the funicular. It’s just a few steps, no big effort.

Uphill I arrive at St. Catherine’s Square (Katarinski Trg) with the baroque Jesuit church of St. Catherine (Crkva Sv. Katarine). It was built from 1620 to 1632 and is regarded as the most beautiful baroque religious building in Zagreb. I wonder if it is possible to have a look from inside. Maybe I should visit it some other time – now I’d rather continue to saunter.

My walk takes me to St. Mark’s Square (Trg Sv. Marka), the centre of the Upper Town. Even from a distance the colourful tiles of St. Mark’s Church (Crkva Svetog Marka) really leap out at me. They show two coats of arms: the emblem of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia on the left and the coat of arms of Zagreb on the right. St. Mark’s Church was built in the 18th century. The coats of arms were added in the process of restoration in the 19th century.

In front of the Parliament Palace on the east side of St. Mark’s Square a very serious-looking guard is on duty. I think it’s wise not to take any picture. He could accuse me of spying and arrest me. 

After a short walk I am in front of the Stone Gate (Vrata Kamenita). Inside the gate there is a small chapel in honour of the Virgin Mary. It is a place of intercession and thanksgiving to the Mother of God. Candles are lit, on the walls hang thanksgiving stone tablets. Out of respect for those who pray I refrain from taking pictures.

A staircase right behind the stone gate leads me to the old pharmacy in Radićeva Street. At this place Zagreb’s first pharmacy was opened in 1355. Even today the building is used as a pharmacy. Finally the Radićeva Street that runs straight up to Jelačić Square takes me back to the Lower Town.

Insiders’ tip: The brewery Medvedgrad (Pivnica Medvedgrad) in the Savska 56 is worth a visit. Apart from five kinds of natural home-made beer, regional specialities and Croatian dishes are on the menu.