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St. Pauli Landungsbrücken and Fischmarkt

For many visitors to Hamburg the first point of attraction is the St. Pauli Landungsbrücken (landing stages). Since it is the port giving the city its remarkable charm.

St. Pauli Landungsbrücken

[22 April 2004] — The St. Pauli Landungsbrücken consist of six pontoon bridges, built in 1839 as landing places for large steamers and sailing ships. The clock tower – indicating both the time and the current water level of the Elbe river – was erected in 1910. Likewise the dispatch halls, where the ticket offices of the shipping lines are located.

The pontoon construction extends to a length of 688 meters (2,260 ft). Today the landing stages serve as the departure point for boat tours of the harbour. The HADAG ships start from pier 2 – likewise Kapitän Prüsse. Launch tours depart from pier 2, pier 6 and from the Barkassen-Centrale at Überseebrücke (overseas bridge).

The yellow ferry to the “Musicaltheater im Hamburger Hafen” (Musical Theatre of the Port), where “The Lion King” is currently performed, also starts at the landing stages. In the twinkling of an eye the so called “lion’s taxi” carries the visitors of the musical to the other side of the Elbe river and sets them down in front of the tent.

Those, who rather feel like making a city tour, can get on one of the red double-decker busses or the nostalgic Hummelbahn, both leaving at pier 1.

My tip: If you like to make a boat tour of the harbour I recommend to book a launch tour. The launches are smaller and more flexible than the large harbour ships. Thus the launches can easily access the interesting small waterways of the »Speicherstadt and the floodgates of the Elbe river.

At the end of the pontoon construction one of Hamburg’s oldest and most remarkable monuments is located: the Old Elbe Tunnel (Alter Elbtunnel). It is 426 metres (1,400 ft) long and connects Hamburg’s city area (St. Pauli) with the harbour area (Steinwerder). The planning of the Old Elbe Tunnel began in 1901, the construction six years later. After a construction time of four years the tunnel was opened to public on 7 September, 1911. This – in former times – gigantic constuction project swallowed up 10 million Goldmarks.

In contrast to the New Elbe Tunnel (which connects the western part of Hamburg through the motorway A7 with Hamburg-Waltershof) the Old Elbe Tunnel is also passable by pedestrians and cyclists.

And another thing sets the old model apart from its successor: if you like to drive through the tunnel by car you have to pay a toll charge of € 1.40. This toll includes an unusual treatment: A freight elevator carries the vehicle several metres downward. At tube level a single-lane roadway leads to Steinwerder, where another elevator carries its cargo back to the daylight.

Nearby the landing stages the highest monument of Hamburg – the Bismarck Monument – protrudes from the trees. It is 34.3 meters (113 ft) high and is located at the Old Elbpark. It was inaugurated in 1906 in honour of Reichs-Chancellor Otto von Bismarck (1815 – 1898).

Niederhafen

On the left of the landing stages – between Johannisbollwerk and Vorsetzen – you find the so-called Niederhafen (lower port), an area spotted with a bulk of tourist attractions.

One among many is the small seaplane that offers circuits to give you a bird’s eye view of Hamburg. From this perspective you have a fantastic view on the port with the countless branchings of the Elbe river.

On the right of the seaplane’s berth the Feuerschiff, an old, bright red English lightship (as it were a swimming lighthouse) has been moored. It was reconstructed and has been serving as a “bar-pub-restaurant-hotel-event-vessel” ever since.

A few steps further the museum ship Cap San Diego has been anchored. It can be reached via the oversea bridge. This old freighter, built in 1961, is opened daily from 10 am to 6 pm. Most eye-catching at this spot: the museum ship Rickmer Rickmers, a sailing ship, which was built in 1896. It, too, can be inspected by visitors daily.

St. Pauli Fischmarkt

If you proceed from the landing stages to Hafenstraße, you reach the St. Pauli Fischmarkt (fish market). Every Sunday it attracts locals and, above all, tourists. On this market, established in 1703, fish was the only good sold in former times. Today, the traders offer a wide choice of goods for sale – which reaches from plants, fruits, vegetables and all kinds of junk to small domestic animals and pets.

A curiosity of the fish market is the sun-daily party in the fish auction hall. Here one meets all kind of night owls going through the night of Saturday on Sunday letting the “evening” end with loud music and some last beers. The bustle lasts usually until high noon, when the stalls outside have been taken down long ago. And those, who cannot get enough, continue the pub-crawl in the nearby pub “Haifischbar” (shark pub).

The fish auction hall is more than 100 years old, it was built 1895. The glass dome of the building reminds of a cathedral. Also the roof is an eye-catcher, as bulks of fish figures adore the ridge. The top of the entrance is decorated with Hamburg’s coat of arms.

Even if the fish market is closed, an excursion to this area is worthwhile. Especially to adorers of fish dishes, as some outstanding fish restaurants are close by. Likewise some interesting bars and pubs.